Pilgrimage Travelogue
A highly spiritual journey of a
lifetime
A highly spiritual journey of a
lifetime
Part 6
By Susie "Chie" R. Cunada
Rome, Italy
It was once said that all roads lead to Rome. Even in the 21st century, that is true. Attempting to write about the city is almost
fruitless. It is so enormous and there is such a multitude of things to do in Rome that it must be seen to be fully
comprehended. And even then, it will take days to get even a small glimpse into the past of one of the benchmarks of
Western Civilization. A symbol of corruption and epic brutality, of great beauty and unmatched opulence, few cities rival
Rome in terms of grandeur or of historical import.
Rome tourism is one of the safest bets in the world. People will never tire of viewing crumbling emblems of ancient times,
of seeing some of the majestic works of the renaissance, of eating at traditional Italian restaurants, of relaxing in the same
gardens as European royalty once did. And these are just a few of the things to do in Rome. To get a good feel for the city,
you have to be prepared and efficient - like most Romans, you have to be quick on your feet and full of vibrant energy.
Otherwise, this is not the place for you. Even the most casual of the many Rome walking tours available will exhaust you.
But its beauty is unrivaled, its scenery astounding and nothing should dissuade you from witnessing the charm and
vibrancy of one of the birthplaces of civilization.
As you know, Italy has had a tremendous influence on the culture and religion of the entire Mediterranean region and, by
extension, much of the Western world. It has an array of riches to offer the traveler, artistic treasures, historical sites,
enchanting landscapes, and of course good food and wine.
Italy can also claim to be a pilgrim’s paradise for not only can it call itself the cradle of Christianity but throughout history it
has given birth to a stream of remarkable men and women who have contributed so much to the development of the
Church. Today, we can visit any corner of this country and find both sanctuaries and scenery that inspire us spiritually and
increase our understanding of our faith.
In particular, Rome was the administrative and spiritual center of an empire that stretched across the entire world, which is
why it later became the center of Christianity, the largest religion in the world. For the Christian traveler, however, all this
serves only as a backdrop for the enormous influence that this country has had on the history of Christendom. It was in
Rome that the tradition of the successors of Peter was established and hence the papacy. Throughout Italy, some great
influential Christians have been born, such as Francis of Assisi and, more recently, Padre Pio, who have inspired believers
and non-believers alike. And that is exactly the reason why Italy has been included in our pilgrimage.
By Susie "Chie" R. Cunada
Rome, Italy
It was once said that all roads lead to Rome. Even in the 21st century, that is true. Attempting to write about the city is almost
fruitless. It is so enormous and there is such a multitude of things to do in Rome that it must be seen to be fully
comprehended. And even then, it will take days to get even a small glimpse into the past of one of the benchmarks of
Western Civilization. A symbol of corruption and epic brutality, of great beauty and unmatched opulence, few cities rival
Rome in terms of grandeur or of historical import.
Rome tourism is one of the safest bets in the world. People will never tire of viewing crumbling emblems of ancient times,
of seeing some of the majestic works of the renaissance, of eating at traditional Italian restaurants, of relaxing in the same
gardens as European royalty once did. And these are just a few of the things to do in Rome. To get a good feel for the city,
you have to be prepared and efficient - like most Romans, you have to be quick on your feet and full of vibrant energy.
Otherwise, this is not the place for you. Even the most casual of the many Rome walking tours available will exhaust you.
But its beauty is unrivaled, its scenery astounding and nothing should dissuade you from witnessing the charm and
vibrancy of one of the birthplaces of civilization.
As you know, Italy has had a tremendous influence on the culture and religion of the entire Mediterranean region and, by
extension, much of the Western world. It has an array of riches to offer the traveler, artistic treasures, historical sites,
enchanting landscapes, and of course good food and wine.
Italy can also claim to be a pilgrim’s paradise for not only can it call itself the cradle of Christianity but throughout history it
has given birth to a stream of remarkable men and women who have contributed so much to the development of the
Church. Today, we can visit any corner of this country and find both sanctuaries and scenery that inspire us spiritually and
increase our understanding of our faith.
In particular, Rome was the administrative and spiritual center of an empire that stretched across the entire world, which is
why it later became the center of Christianity, the largest religion in the world. For the Christian traveler, however, all this
serves only as a backdrop for the enormous influence that this country has had on the history of Christendom. It was in
Rome that the tradition of the successors of Peter was established and hence the papacy. Throughout Italy, some great
influential Christians have been born, such as Francis of Assisi and, more recently, Padre Pio, who have inspired believers
and non-believers alike. And that is exactly the reason why Italy has been included in our pilgrimage.
St. Peter’s Square
After another early wake-up call and breakfast, we left for St. Peter’s
Square for the papal audience. The papal service doesn’t start until
10:30 a.m., but we had to be there at 8 a.m. to get good seats.
As a backgrounder, the Papal Audience is held on Wednesdays if
the Pope is in Rome, giving pilgrims and visitors the chance to
"see the Pope" and receive the Papal Blessing or Apostolic
Blessing from the successor of the Apostle Peter during their visit.
Anyhow, the Pope was introduced to where the pilgrims of each
language group were from, with loud cheers from the people of that
place, and sometimes with a song from a choir from that land. He
then spoke to them in their native language. At the end of the
Audience, the Pope will pray, together with those attending, the Our
Father prayer in Latin. At the end of the Prayer as Head of the
Catholic Church, he will impart his Apostolic Blessing upon the
crowd which also extends to loved ones that are sick and suffering
and blesses any religious articles that people have brought with
them to be blessed.
In all honesty, a Papal Audience is altogether different than most
would think. Anywhere from three to five thousand people (or even
more) gather in St. Peter's Square for each papal audience and sit
and listen while the Pope greets the crowd in many different
languages. Many tourists plan their visits to Rome years ahead of
time, and the anticipation of coming to Rome and attending an
audience with the Holy Father can be quite overwhelming. Truth be
After another early wake-up call and breakfast, we left for St. Peter’s
Square for the papal audience. The papal service doesn’t start until
10:30 a.m., but we had to be there at 8 a.m. to get good seats.
As a backgrounder, the Papal Audience is held on Wednesdays if
the Pope is in Rome, giving pilgrims and visitors the chance to
"see the Pope" and receive the Papal Blessing or Apostolic
Blessing from the successor of the Apostle Peter during their visit.
Anyhow, the Pope was introduced to where the pilgrims of each
language group were from, with loud cheers from the people of that
place, and sometimes with a song from a choir from that land. He
then spoke to them in their native language. At the end of the
Audience, the Pope will pray, together with those attending, the Our
Father prayer in Latin. At the end of the Prayer as Head of the
Catholic Church, he will impart his Apostolic Blessing upon the
crowd which also extends to loved ones that are sick and suffering
and blesses any religious articles that people have brought with
them to be blessed.
In all honesty, a Papal Audience is altogether different than most
would think. Anywhere from three to five thousand people (or even
more) gather in St. Peter's Square for each papal audience and sit
and listen while the Pope greets the crowd in many different
languages. Many tourists plan their visits to Rome years ahead of
time, and the anticipation of coming to Rome and attending an
audience with the Holy Father can be quite overwhelming. Truth be
told, photographs are allowed at the general audience, but the problem is that the chances of sneaking up close enough
to get more than the top of his crown are not that great, as can be gleaned from my photo below right:
It is easy to sense the letdown on the faces and in the hearts of the faithful pilgrims (like me) who flock to the Vatican on
any given Wednesday for this weekly event. People from all over the world fly to Rome, then head to the Vatican by bus, by
taxi, by car, by subway, and even by foot, with their golden ticket to the General Audience in hand. There is a fleeting
moment when it becomes apparent to them that they are sharing that long anticipated intimate experience with the many
thousand others who have gathered in St. Peter's Square with the very same tickets in hand, and this realization can
indeed be desolating.
to get more than the top of his crown are not that great, as can be gleaned from my photo below right:
It is easy to sense the letdown on the faces and in the hearts of the faithful pilgrims (like me) who flock to the Vatican on
any given Wednesday for this weekly event. People from all over the world fly to Rome, then head to the Vatican by bus, by
taxi, by car, by subway, and even by foot, with their golden ticket to the General Audience in hand. There is a fleeting
moment when it becomes apparent to them that they are sharing that long anticipated intimate experience with the many
thousand others who have gathered in St. Peter's Square with the very same tickets in hand, and this realization can
indeed be desolating.
I would argue, however, that most people (me included) take this letdown in
stride and do make the best of it. They line up for a place to sit (you'd better
come early if you have plans of sitting down), or just stand up in the square
and stretch their necks to get a glimpse of the Pope, who sits about 150
meters away underneath a canopy. The "hopeful popefuls" like me can still
return home and tell our children about our escapades in Rome, our visit to
the Vatican and the audience with the Holy Father, but in our hearts it is
usually nothing like what we expected. But mind you, just the experience of
being there was still well worth it.
I think it’s apropos for me to emphasize at this point that there are 4 major
basilicas in Rome that are considered “must see” for Catholics – St. Peter’s
stride and do make the best of it. They line up for a place to sit (you'd better
come early if you have plans of sitting down), or just stand up in the square
and stretch their necks to get a glimpse of the Pope, who sits about 150
meters away underneath a canopy. The "hopeful popefuls" like me can still
return home and tell our children about our escapades in Rome, our visit to
the Vatican and the audience with the Holy Father, but in our hearts it is
usually nothing like what we expected. But mind you, just the experience of
being there was still well worth it.
I think it’s apropos for me to emphasize at this point that there are 4 major
basilicas in Rome that are considered “must see” for Catholics – St. Peter’s
Basilica, St. Paul’s Basilica, Basilica of St. John Lateran and Basilica of St. Mary Major. A little bird told me that if you are
able to go to these 4 basilicas, you would gain plenary indulgence.
So, in order not to miss an indulgence, we left at 1:30 pm for the Basilica of St. Mary Major (Basilica di Santa Maria
Maggiore). Founded in the 4th century, the Basilica is one of the five great ancient basilicas of Rome. Its 18th-century
exterior conceals one of the best-preserved Byzantine interiors in the city.
This is the Basilica also known as Our Lady of the Snows, due to the tradition that it snowed on August 5th and left an
outline on the hill for the Basilica to be built upon. According to tradition, the location of this basilica was chosen by the
Blessed Virgin Mary through a miracle of snow falling on the original hill where the basilica is now erected. This feast, Our
Lady of Snows, is currently celebrated annually as reflected in the official Latin title of the Basilica. The name of the church
reflects two ideas of greatness ("major") - that of a major (or papal) basilica and that of the largest (major) church in Rome
dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary.
Of all the great Roman Churches and basilicas, the Basilica of St. Mary Major enjoys the most successful blend of different
architectural styles. Its colonnaded triple nave is part of the original 5th century building. The Cosmatesque marble floor and
delightful Romanesque bell tower (the highest in Rome), with its blue ceramic roundels, are from the medieval period. The
Renaissance saw a new coffered ceiling, and the baroque gave the church twin domes and its most imposing front and
rear facades. The mosaics are St. Mary Major's most famous feature.
able to go to these 4 basilicas, you would gain plenary indulgence.
So, in order not to miss an indulgence, we left at 1:30 pm for the Basilica of St. Mary Major (Basilica di Santa Maria
Maggiore). Founded in the 4th century, the Basilica is one of the five great ancient basilicas of Rome. Its 18th-century
exterior conceals one of the best-preserved Byzantine interiors in the city.
This is the Basilica also known as Our Lady of the Snows, due to the tradition that it snowed on August 5th and left an
outline on the hill for the Basilica to be built upon. According to tradition, the location of this basilica was chosen by the
Blessed Virgin Mary through a miracle of snow falling on the original hill where the basilica is now erected. This feast, Our
Lady of Snows, is currently celebrated annually as reflected in the official Latin title of the Basilica. The name of the church
reflects two ideas of greatness ("major") - that of a major (or papal) basilica and that of the largest (major) church in Rome
dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary.
Of all the great Roman Churches and basilicas, the Basilica of St. Mary Major enjoys the most successful blend of different
architectural styles. Its colonnaded triple nave is part of the original 5th century building. The Cosmatesque marble floor and
delightful Romanesque bell tower (the highest in Rome), with its blue ceramic roundels, are from the medieval period. The
Renaissance saw a new coffered ceiling, and the baroque gave the church twin domes and its most imposing front and
rear facades. The mosaics are St. Mary Major's most famous feature.
However, the basilica is also famous for its excesses and instigated some violent
demonstrations by the Protestants who vehemently opposed the decoration of the entire
ceiling with gold leaf (Left when thousands were starving.
The development of the city has taken away the impact of Santa Maria Maggiore's
commanding position on the summit of the Esquiline Hill, but the church is still
considered by many to be the most beautiful church in Rome after St Peter's.
The high altar of the basilica is a papal altar, used only by the pope himself, or a priest
given specific permission by him. It is traditional for the pope to lead a mass here on the
Feast of the Assumption of Mary, every August 15th. A porphyry urn on the altar contains
the relics of St. Matthew and other martyrs. Beneath the altar is a kneeling statue of Pope
Pius IX (left below).
Beneath this, St. Jerome, Doctor of the Church and author of the Latin translation of the
Bible, is buried in the Bethlehem crypt. The crypt is built to resemble the cave of the
Nativity in Bethlehem. In the right transept is the chapel containing the elaborate tomb of
Pope Sixtus V and decorated with frescoes and reliefs of events from his reign.
The chapel centers on a reliquary containing part of the Holy Crib, which was carried to
Rome by Christian refugees during the Muslim conquest of the Holy Land in the 7th
century.
A museum below the church contains Roman remains that were found here in the 18th
century, including a section of Roman road, a mosiac pavement, two wells, a series of
arches and narrow passages cut into the bedrock. Today, the church remains one of
Rome's most fascinating churches and is well worth a visit.
We thenproceeded to Saint John Lateran Basilica after taking photos.
Dedicated to John the Baptist and John the Evangelist, the Basilica of St. John Lateran
demonstrations by the Protestants who vehemently opposed the decoration of the entire
ceiling with gold leaf (Left when thousands were starving.
The development of the city has taken away the impact of Santa Maria Maggiore's
commanding position on the summit of the Esquiline Hill, but the church is still
considered by many to be the most beautiful church in Rome after St Peter's.
The high altar of the basilica is a papal altar, used only by the pope himself, or a priest
given specific permission by him. It is traditional for the pope to lead a mass here on the
Feast of the Assumption of Mary, every August 15th. A porphyry urn on the altar contains
the relics of St. Matthew and other martyrs. Beneath the altar is a kneeling statue of Pope
Pius IX (left below).
Beneath this, St. Jerome, Doctor of the Church and author of the Latin translation of the
Bible, is buried in the Bethlehem crypt. The crypt is built to resemble the cave of the
Nativity in Bethlehem. In the right transept is the chapel containing the elaborate tomb of
Pope Sixtus V and decorated with frescoes and reliefs of events from his reign.
The chapel centers on a reliquary containing part of the Holy Crib, which was carried to
Rome by Christian refugees during the Muslim conquest of the Holy Land in the 7th
century.
A museum below the church contains Roman remains that were found here in the 18th
century, including a section of Roman road, a mosiac pavement, two wells, a series of
arches and narrow passages cut into the bedrock. Today, the church remains one of
Rome's most fascinating churches and is well worth a visit.
We thenproceeded to Saint John Lateran Basilica after taking photos.
Dedicated to John the Baptist and John the Evangelist, the Basilica of St. John Lateran
(Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano) is the oldest and ranks first among the four great “patriarchal” basilicas of Rome. The
Basilica is Rome's cathedral, the seat of Christendom in Rome. It is also the cathedral of the bishop of Rome, the Pope,
and is thus known as the "Cathedral of Rome and of the World."
The first basilica on the site was built in the 4th century when Constantine donated the land he had received from the
wealthy Lateran family. That structure and its successors suffered fire, earthquake and the ravages of war, but the Lateran
remained the church where popes were consecrated until the popes returned from Avignon in the 14th century to find the
church and the adjoining palace in ruins.
One of Rome’s most imposing churches, the Lateran’s towering facade is crowned with 15 colossal statues of Christ, John
the Baptist, John the Evangelist and 12 doctors of the Church. There are six papal tombs inside. The papal altar is said to
contain many relics, including the heads of Saints Peter and Paul, and part of St Peter's wooden altar on which St. Peter
himself celebrated Mass.
Basilica is Rome's cathedral, the seat of Christendom in Rome. It is also the cathedral of the bishop of Rome, the Pope,
and is thus known as the "Cathedral of Rome and of the World."
The first basilica on the site was built in the 4th century when Constantine donated the land he had received from the
wealthy Lateran family. That structure and its successors suffered fire, earthquake and the ravages of war, but the Lateran
remained the church where popes were consecrated until the popes returned from Avignon in the 14th century to find the
church and the adjoining palace in ruins.
One of Rome’s most imposing churches, the Lateran’s towering facade is crowned with 15 colossal statues of Christ, John
the Baptist, John the Evangelist and 12 doctors of the Church. There are six papal tombs inside. The papal altar is said to
contain many relics, including the heads of Saints Peter and Paul, and part of St Peter's wooden altar on which St. Peter
himself celebrated Mass.
St. Peter’s Chair
Most Catholics think of St. Peter’s Basilica as the Pope’s main church, but they are
wrong. St. John Lateran is the Pope’s church, the cathedral of the Diocese of Rome
where the Bishop of Rome presides.
After my traditional 3 wishes and photo ops, we proceeded to La Scala Santa (The
Holy Staircase).
La Scala Santa
Situated opposite St. John Lateran Basilica, the Holy Stairs are reputed to be those
walked up by Jesus, preserved at this former Papal palace. The 28 marble stairs
carefully preserved in this handsome building are traditionally the steps walked up by
Christ on his way to trial before Pontius Pilate. St. Helena, mother of Emperor
Constantine, was a pioneering collector of relics, and the staircase is supposedly
among her finds, brought to Rome in 326 AD.
Most Catholics think of St. Peter’s Basilica as the Pope’s main church, but they are
wrong. St. John Lateran is the Pope’s church, the cathedral of the Diocese of Rome
where the Bishop of Rome presides.
After my traditional 3 wishes and photo ops, we proceeded to La Scala Santa (The
Holy Staircase).
La Scala Santa
Situated opposite St. John Lateran Basilica, the Holy Stairs are reputed to be those
walked up by Jesus, preserved at this former Papal palace. The 28 marble stairs
carefully preserved in this handsome building are traditionally the steps walked up by
Christ on his way to trial before Pontius Pilate. St. Helena, mother of Emperor
Constantine, was a pioneering collector of relics, and the staircase is supposedly
among her finds, brought to Rome in 326 AD.
Devout pilgrims (me included) mount the steps on their knees, praying. The rate of progress is very slow and looks suitably
punishing. The Scala Santa is encased in protective walnut wood boards, although there are holes cut through above
marks which are supposed to be Jesus' blood (you won't be able to see through these unless you do the kneeling).
Less devout visitors can walk up the alternative staircases on each side, since the Holy Stairs can only be ascended on
punishing. The Scala Santa is encased in protective walnut wood boards, although there are holes cut through above
marks which are supposed to be Jesus' blood (you won't be able to see through these unless you do the kneeling).
Less devout visitors can walk up the alternative staircases on each side, since the Holy Stairs can only be ascended on
one’s knees, a devotion much in favour
with pilgrims and the faithful, especially
on Fridays and in Lent. At the top you can
see into a small and lavish private
chapel which goes far back in the history
of the Lateran Palace, former seat of the
popes. This chapel, first mentioned in
the 8th century and called the Sancta
Sanctorum or Holy of Holies, was the
private oratory of medieval popes.
In the Catholic Church, plenary
indulgence can be granted for climbing
the stairs on one’s knees.
with pilgrims and the faithful, especially
on Fridays and in Lent. At the top you can
see into a small and lavish private
chapel which goes far back in the history
of the Lateran Palace, former seat of the
popes. This chapel, first mentioned in
the 8th century and called the Sancta
Sanctorum or Holy of Holies, was the
private oratory of medieval popes.
In the Catholic Church, plenary
indulgence can be granted for climbing
the stairs on one’s knees.
Pope Pius VII in 1817 granted those who ascend the stairs in the prescribed manner an indulgence of nine years for every
step. Finally, Pope Pius X in 1908 granted a plenary indulgence to be gained as often as the stairs are devoutly ascended
after confession and communion.
Personally, this was perhaps one of the unexpected highlights of my trip. To be presented with an opportunity to experience
Christ’s passion in such a physical way was truly exceptional. Besides, not everybody will have the opportunity to do this,
right? So, I braced myself for the daunting task ahead. Climbing the first three steps was a breeze. Then I slowly felt the
pain, mounting with every step. It was too late to back out as the steps behind me were already filled up with other pilgrims,
each determined to climb their way to the top. With my dogged determination, enhanced by ardent prayer, I was able to
reach the top in one piece. But you know what? As soon as I reached the top of the stairs, the pain simply vanished!
Honestly! As if the pain never existed.
Looking back now, it was a good thing I didn’t know at the time what I was in for. I didn’t realize it was that excruciatingly
painful. Walking on one’s knees, to begin with, can be painful, but to ascend the stairs is something else! But I did it!
Conclusion: next Issue
step. Finally, Pope Pius X in 1908 granted a plenary indulgence to be gained as often as the stairs are devoutly ascended
after confession and communion.
Personally, this was perhaps one of the unexpected highlights of my trip. To be presented with an opportunity to experience
Christ’s passion in such a physical way was truly exceptional. Besides, not everybody will have the opportunity to do this,
right? So, I braced myself for the daunting task ahead. Climbing the first three steps was a breeze. Then I slowly felt the
pain, mounting with every step. It was too late to back out as the steps behind me were already filled up with other pilgrims,
each determined to climb their way to the top. With my dogged determination, enhanced by ardent prayer, I was able to
reach the top in one piece. But you know what? As soon as I reached the top of the stairs, the pain simply vanished!
Honestly! As if the pain never existed.
Looking back now, it was a good thing I didn’t know at the time what I was in for. I didn’t realize it was that excruciatingly
painful. Walking on one’s knees, to begin with, can be painful, but to ascend the stairs is something else! But I did it!
Conclusion: next Issue