Pilgrimage Travelogue
A highly spiritual journey of a
lifetime
way, we arrived in the car park to a first glimpse of fortress-like buildings juxtaposed against the backdrop of dramatic
cliffs falling away to the deep valley below.  I was stunned by one of the most impressive natural attractions in Spain.  

The Black Madonna was less than 3 feet in height.  Regardless of its origin and like all other religious objects, the Black
Madonna represents humankind’s faith in God.  And since I was the first in line, I had time and the chance to take a
picture.

We then attended a concelebrated mass where Fr. Jerry officiated mass along with the monks.
Part 5
By Susie "Chie" R. Cunada

Our Lady of Montserrat
As a backgrounder, Santa Maria de Montserrat is a Benedictine
abbey which hosts the Virgin of Montserrat.  "Montserrat" literally
means "jagged (serrated) mountain" in Catalan.  It describes the
peculiar aspect of the rock formation, which is visible from a great
distance. The mountain is composed of strikingly pink
conglomerate, a form of sedimentary rock.  One interesting fact
about the monastery is that it is home to the world’s oldest
continuing press – its first book was published in 1499. The
Monastery of Montserrat, located near the top of the 4,000-foot
mountain, is home to about 80 monks.  The monks welcome
visitors and invite them to participate in their daily celebrations of
Mass and recitations of the Liturgy of the Hours.

The Basilica, next to the monastery, is home to the revered La
Moreneta, or Black Madonna.  The statue of the Virgin is a small
Romanesque statue made of wood believed by some to have been
carved in Jerusalem in the early days of the church.  It depicts a
seated Black Virgin with the child Jesus on her lap.  Her dark color
is due to changes in the varnish with the passage of time.  It is one
of the black Madonnas of Europe, hence its familiar Catalan name,
la Moreneta ("The little dark-skinned one").  Legend has it that the
Benedictine monks could not move the statue to construct their
monastery, choosing to instead build around it.  The statue's
sanctuary is located at the rear of the chapel, where an altar of gold
surrounds the icon, and is now a site of pilgrimage.  
Not only is Montserrat Monastery of significant religious importance but the natural beauty surrounding the monastery is
simply breathtaking.

The basilica also holds one of the monastery's most noted attractions, the 50-member Escolanía, one of the oldest and
most renowned boys' choirs in Europe, dating from the 13th century.  At 1 p.m. daily you can hear them singing "Salve
Regina" and the "Virolai" (hymn of Montserrat) in the basilica.

Walking paths and a funicular take visitors to Santa Cova (Holy
Grotto), the traditional site of the discovery of the Black Virgin.  The
grotto dates back to the 17th century and was built in the shape of
a cross.  The funicular goes halfway, but the rest of the trip must
be made on foot.

Anyhow, as we start to climb the winding road to Montserrat, one
could see the stunning views, and looking back across the fields
and towns gives a new perspective to the landscape.  I read about
the formation of the mountains rising up from the river delta over
thousands of years, wherein the stones rise and fold over each
other which then created these distinctive serrated formations
piercing the sky. Passing a number of monastic retreats along the
homage to two of Venice's patrons -St. Mark and St. Teodoro of Amasea.  The columns have long served as the official
gateway to the city.

Besides being filled with people and great specimens of architecture, Piazza San Marco is also full of pigeons.  Pigeons
have long been a problem in the square but only recently did the city pass a law that banned the feeding of these birds.  
The pigeons have caused much damage to the delicate mosaics on St. Mark's Basilica and to other buildings around
the piazza.  Several attempts have been made to control the pigeon population but few have been even slightly
successful.

Next issue: Rome and the Vatican
After the mass, Marilyn and I lighted votive candles for the
intentions of family and friends.  It is quite an amazing sight to see
thousands of candles lit – each a representation of someone’s
prayer. (The picture below doesn’t do justice to the length of the
alley where candles have been lit.)

Montserrat was truly a moving place, made more so because of
the fantastic natural environment.  So, with a little bit of time on our
hands, we had some photo ops around the monastery, as seen
below:

I left Montserrat with an infused sense of peace and the feeling
that my problems are nothing but a speck in an ocean.  Dealing
with the day-to-day stress can leave us myopic and this was a
fantastic way of taking a big step back and looking at the bigger
picture.  And then everything is put back into perspective.
Nice (France) / Monaco / Arenzano (Italy)

Nice
The city of Nice is located on the French Riviera in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur.  Blessed by a sunny, temperate climate,
Nice attracts visitors from around the world.  Among its many attractions are its beautiful beaches, lovely seaside
promenade, interesting museums, and famous city landmarks.

Nice is just a delight, with its flower market, gorgeous coastline,
sipping drinks mere feet from the Mediterranean, great shopping
and delightful pastries.  A dignified queen of the Cote d'Azur, Nice
certainly has plenty to offer the tourist.  This area of France is filled
with wonderful hilltop perched villages, upscale resort cities, an
independent principality and neighboring Alps villages.  

Nice is the 5th most populous city in France, after Paris,
Marseilles, Lyon and Toulouse.  Located on the southeast coast
of France on the Mediterranean Sea, it is the second largest
French city on the Mediterranean coast.

Down the ages, the town changed hands many times.  Its
strategic location and port significantly contributed to its maritime
strength.  For years it was an Italian dominion, and then became
part of France in 1860. Culturally and architecturally enriched over
time, Nice today has become a truly cosmopolitan tourist
destination. The spectacular natural beauty of the area and its
mild Mediterranean climate came to the attention of the English
upper classes in the second half of the 18th century, when an
increasing number of aristocratic families took to spending their
winter there.

The city’s main seaside promenade, the Promenade des Anglais
(‘the Walkway of the English’) owes its name to the earliest
visitors to the resort.  For decades now, the picturesque Nicean
surroundings have attracted not only those in search of relaxation,
but also those seeking inspiration.  The climate and landscape
are still what attracts most visitors today.  
Tete au Carre square head
Library in Nice
This sculpture called Tete au Carre (Thinking inside the box) was created by
sculptor and artist, Sacha Sosno.  Home to three floors of the administration
building of the Central Library of Nice, it stands 26 metres high.  It has to be the
oddest looking library administration building ever.  Really, where else have you
seen an 80-foot-tall square head?

Monaco
The Principality of Monaco is a sovereign city-state on the Côte d'Azur (French
Riviera).  It is bordered on three sides by its neighbour, France, and its centre is
about 16 km (9.9 mi) from Italy.  With a population of 35,986, Monaco is the
second smallest country (by size) in the world, after the Vatican City.  I should
stress that Monte Carlo is not the capital of Monaco but a government district.  The
country is divided into four areas: Monaco-Ville (the old city), the Condamine (port
quarter), Monte Carlo (business and recreation), and Fontvieille (recreation and
light industry).  With no natural resources to exploit other than its location and
climate, the principality has become a resort for tourists and a tax haven for
businesses. Monaco boasts the world's highest GDP nominal per capita at
$151,630 and is the most densely populated country in the world.  It also has the world's highest life expectancy at
almost 90 years, and the lowest unemployment rate.

The world's second smallest monarchy, Monaco is a principality governed under a form of constitutional monarchy, with
Prince Albert II as head of state.  The House of Grimaldi has ruled Monaco since 1297, and the state's sovereignty was
officially recognized by the Franco-Monegasque Treaty of 1861.  Despite Monaco being independent and pursuing its
own foreign policy course, its national defense is the responsibility of France and, therefore, has no navy or air force.  
However, on both a per-capita and
per-area basis, Monaco has the largest
police force (515 police officers for
35,000 people) and police presence in
the world.  Its police include a specialist
unit which operates patrol and
surveillance boats.  There is also a
small military consisting of a bodyguard
unit for the Prince and his palace.

A note of caution: Monaco is a very safe,
crime-free location, but it has a strong
police presence (read police state!).  
Every public space is blanketed with
cameras and therefore any kind of disorder may produce an
immediate reaction and the attendance of many officers.

One of Monaco's main sources of income is tourism.  Each year,
many are attracted to its casino and pleasant climate.  Monaco's
own citizens are not allowed to gamble in the casino.  The state
retains monopolies in numerous sectors, including tobacco,
postal service, and the telephone network.  Living standards are
high, roughly comparable to those in prosperous French
metropolitan areas.

Monaco is not a member of the European Union.  However, it is
very closely linked via a customs union with France, and as such,
its currency is the same as that of France, the euro. The official
language of Monaco is French.  English is used by American and
British residents, but the traditional national language is Monégasque, now spoken by only a minority of residents.

Monaco levies no income tax on individuals.  The absence of a personal income tax in the principality has attracted to it a
considerable number of wealthy "tax refugee" residents from European countries who derive the majority of their income
from activity outside Monaco; celebrities such as Formula One drivers attract most of the attention, but the vast majority of
them are less well-known business people. This applies to all residents of Monaco of any nationality except French
citizens whose residency started after 1957.  These French citizens still must pay French income tax.  

Anyhow, with our local guide leading the way, we did a walking tour of Monaco.  Cars are singularly useless for getting
around Monaco, as you'll spend more time trying to park than if you walked.  We walked through Monaco-Ville, also
known as “le rocher” or “the rock.”  Perched on the famous Rock, Monaco-Ville juts into the sea on Monaco's western
flank and offers excellent views of the harbour and its usual armada of luxury yachts below.  The city's architectural
history, reflected in its medieval houses, palaces and vaulted passageways, is best experienced on foot - either alone or
through one of the many organized tours available (which tend to make the city quite crowded during the summer
months).  Monaco-Ville is still a medieval village at heart and an astonishingly picturesque site.  It is made up almost
entirely of pedestrian streets and passageways and most previous century houses still remain.  

Our first stop was the Monaco Cathedral, a Romanesque-Byzantine church dedicated to Saint Nicolas, and houses the
remains of Prince Rainier and Princess Grace.

We then walked towards the Palace.  There was a beehive of activity at that time in preparation for Prince Albert’s
upcoming wedding.  So we just spent our time taking snapshots of the area.  

After our walking tour, our bus passed through the starting point where they hold the ever-famous Grand Prix.  As you
know, since 1955, the Monaco Grand Prix has been held annually in the streets of Monaco.  It is widely considered to be
one of the most prestigious automobile races in the world.  The erection of the Circuit de Monaco takes six weeks to
complete, and the removal after the race takes another three weeks.  The circuit has many elevation changes and tight
corners, along with a tunnel.  This, together with being incredibly narrow and tight, makes it perhaps the most
demanding Formula One track in the world.

On a personal note, there have been so many moments on this trip when I feel like someone should come along and
pinch me.  I have to pause and take it all in because it almost seems surreal, like I am in a dream...  Am I really in
Monaco looking at these stunning views that are literally to die for?

So far, that has been the best sightseeing part of this trip.  I left my heart in Monaco!  For me, Monaco evoked a magical
dream world.  We've got a glimpse of so many great places, so many beautiful people and been able to do many
amazing things it seems like it can't get any better.

It reminded me of how life truly is the ying and the yang.  Sometimes it's hard and challenging and sometimes it's so
completely incredible that you can't quite take it all in.  It’s almost like looking out into the ocean and realizing that you are
almost as insignificant as a measly grain of sand.

Italy
Italy, where everyone needs to visit, is the birthplace of the Roman Empire and fountainhead of the Renaissance.  While
there are millions of reasons to visit Italy, to list them all would take weeks.  But for those interested in historical
architecture, the ruins that dot the countryside are a marvel to behold. Palaces, castles, villas and gardens spread
throughout the finest cities in Italy, while famous and towering cathedrals, as well as glittering Renaissance structures,
dot the skylines of Florence and Siena, Rome and Naples.

For art lovers, trips to Italy are a must.  There are many artistic wonders to behold in nearly every Italian city, from the
northern Venetian museums all the way down to the coast of Sicily.  Italy vacations can also include the sophistication
and pageantry of the theater.  While operas are the main draw, there are many other musical options, not to mention the
chance to watch famed plays that have stood the test of time in some of the most ornate and celebrated buildings in the
world.

For those more interested in culinary delights, Italy is the home of pizza and pasta, of gelato and Chianti - the importance
Italian chefs place on mealtime cannot be stressed enough.  Lasagna, tortellini, pesto sauce and olive oil are all
trademarks of local cuisine, and the wines - primarily in the central regions of Tuscany and Umbria - are without compare.

Whether you stay in the bustling center of a major city or in a small medieval hamlet residing on a hillside, there is a
wealth of sights and sounds to behold in this foreign land.  And despite all the natural and artistic wonders available on
display in this country, one of the main reasons to visit Italy is the people themselves.  Warm and welcoming, they will
ensure that this will not be your only trip to their homeland.  It is not difficult to see why Italy is so popular, as it has it all:
sun, beautiful landscapes, good food and wine.

Arenzano & Padua, Italy
Arenzano is a coastal town in the province of Genoa.  This
ancient fishing village has gradually turned into a seaside resort
and has been a fashionable tourist attraction over a century.  

Call it coincidence or what, but June 13th happens to be the
feast day of St. Anthony of Padua, and we were on our way to
attend his “fiesta.” Since it was quite a long drive, we watched
the movie of St. Anthony during the drive, which kept us really
entertained and also we got to know the saint more.  We also
crossed the 45th parallel along the way.  

Padua is a picturesque city with a dense network of arcaded
streets opening into large communal piazzas.  As one of the
cultural and economic centers in the northeast part of Italy, it is a
pilgrimage city where millions of pilgrims come here every year
to visit the "Basilica di Sant’Antonio", and where the grave of
"Sant’Antonio" is preserved.

Fernando Martins de Bulhões was born in Lisbon, Portugal.  His
was a very rich family of the nobility who wanted him to become
educated, and they arranged for him to be instructed at the local
cathedral school.  Against the wishes of his family, however, he
entered the Augustinian Abbey of St. Vincent on the outskirts of
Lisbon.  The Canons Regular of St. Augustine were famous for
their dedication to scholarly pursuits, and under their tutelage,
Anthony studied scripture and the Latin classics.

After his ordination to the priesthood, Fernando was placed in
charge of hospitality in his abbey.  It was in this role, in 1219, that
he came in contact with five Franciscans who were on their way
to Morocco to preach to the Muslims there.  Fernando was
strongly attracted to the simple evangelical lifestyle of the
Franciscan friars.  In February 1220, news arrived that the five
Franciscans had been martyred in Morocco.  Fernando
meditated on the heroism of these Franciscans and, inspired by
their example, obtained permission from his Augustinian
superiors to join the Franciscan Order.

On the return trip to Portugal, his ship was driven by storm upon
the coast of Sicily and he landed at Messina.  From Sicily he
made his way to Assisi and sought admission into a monastery
in Italy, but met with difficulty on account of his sickly
appearance. He was finally assigned, out of pure compassion, to the rural hospice of San Paolo near Forlì, Romagna,
Italy, a choice made after considering his poor health.  There he appears to have lived as a hermit and was put to work in
the kitchen.  Upon his entry to the Franciscan Order, he took the name “Anthony”.

One day, on the occasion of an ordination, a great many visiting Dominican friars were present, and there was some
misunderstanding over who should preach.  The Franciscans naturally expected that one of the Dominicans would
occupy the pulpit, for they were renowned for their preaching.  The Dominicans, on the other hand, had come
unprepared, thinking that a Franciscan would be the homilist.  In this quandary, the head of the hermitage, who had no
one among his own humble friars suitable for the occasion, called upon Anthony, who he suspected was most qualified,
and entreated him to speak whatever the Holy Spirit should put into his mouth.  Anthony objected but was overruled, and
his sermon created a deep impression.  Not only his rich voice and arresting manner, but the entire theme and
substance of his discourse and his moving eloquence, held the attention of his hearers.  At that point, Anthony was
commissioned to preach the Gospel throughout the area of Lombardy, in northern Italy.  From then on, his skills were
used to the utmost by the Church.  It was as a preacher that Anthony revealed his supreme gift.  

Anthony became ill with dropsy and, in 1231, went to the woodland retreat at Camposampiero with two other friars for a
respite.  There Anthony lived in a cell built for him under the branches of a walnut tree.  Anthony died on the way back to
Padua on June 13, 1231 at the age of 36.
Various legends surround the death of Anthony.  One holds that
when he died, the children cried in the streets and that all the bells of
the churches rang of their own accord.  Anthony is buried in the
basilica with his tongue in a reliquary.  When his body was exhumed
30 years after his death, it was claimed that the tongue glistened and
looked as if it was still alive and moist; apparently a further claim
was made that this was a sign of his gift of preaching.

Anthony could be said to have become the "quickest" saint in the
history of the Catholic Church because he was canonized by Pope
Gregory IX less than one year after his death.

His fame spread through Portuguese evangelization, and he has
been known as the most celebrated of the followers of Saint Francis
of Assisi.  He is the patron saint of Padua, of Italy, and of Lisbon, as
well as many other places in Portugal and in the countries of the
former Portuguese Empire.  He is especially invoked for the recovery
of lost things.  Nearly everywhere, St. Anthony is asked to intercede
with God for the return of things lost or stolen.  Those who feel very
familiar with him may pray, “Tony, Tony, turn around.  Something’s
lost and must be found.”  The reason for invoking St. Anthony’s help
in finding lost or stolen things is traced back to an incident in his own
life.  As the story goes, Anthony had a book of psalms that was very
important to him.  Besides the value of any book before the invention
of printing, the Psalter had the notes and comments he had made to
use in teaching students in his Franciscan Order.
A novice who had already grown tired of living the religious life decided to depart the community.  Besides going AWOL
he also took Anthony’s Psalter!  Upon realizing his Psalter was missing, Anthony prayed it would be found or returned to
him.  And after his prayer, the thieving novice was moved to return the Psalter to Anthony and to return to the Order,
which accepted him back. Legend has embroidered this story a bit.  It has the novice stopped in his flight by a horrible
devil, brandishing an ax and threatening to trample him underfoot if he did not immediately return the book.  Obviously a
devil would hardly command anyone to do something good.  But the core of the story would seem to be true.  And the
stolen book is said to be preserved in the Franciscan friary in Bologna.

Likewise, St. Anthony has been pictured by artists and sculptors in all kinds of ways.  He is depicted with a book in his
hands, with a lily or torch.  He has been painted preaching to fish, holding a monstrance with the Blessed Sacrament in
front of a mule or preaching in the public square or from a nut tree.

But since the 17th century, we most often find the saint shown with the child Jesus in his arm or even with the child
standing on a book the saint holds.  A story about St. Anthony projects back into the past relating to his visit to the Lord
of Chatenauneuf.  Anthony was praying far into the night when suddenly the room was filled with light more brilliant than
the sun.  Jesus then appeared to St. Anthony under the form of a little child.  Chatenauneuf, attracted by the brilliant light
that filled his house, was drawn to witness the vision but promised to tell no one of it until after St. Anthony’s death.

In Portugal, Italy, France and Spain, St. Anthony is the patron saint of sailors and fishermen.  According to some
biographers, his statue is sometimes placed in a shrine on the ship’s mast.  Moreover, travelers and vacationers also
pray to St. Anthony that they may be kept safe.  I myself ask for St. Anthony’s intercession all the time and, so far, he has
not turned me down.

Thereafter, we all walked towards the Basilica of Saint Anthony where we witnessed thousands of devotees attend the
concelebrated mass (
above left), participated in by Fr. Jerry, which was then followed by a procession in St. Anthony’s
honor.
Venice (Italy)

Venice
Venice is everything you expect and more.  It was my second
time to see, taste and experience Venice and I was just as
excited as the first time, hoping against hope that I will be able
to view it this time from a different perspective as I didn’t
appreciate it that much during my previous visit last year.  To
start with, the weather was perfect – hot and sunny – which
really made walking and sightseeing all the more enjoyable.  
We had a local guide that went with us from Padua to Venice so
we will make it to our destination without any hitches.

The city of Venice (Venezia to the Italians) stretches across
numerous small islands in a lagoon along the Adriatic Sea in
northeast Italy.  It is protected from the Adriatic Sea by a strip of
land called the Lido.  The region around Venice is called the
Veneto, with a population of about 272,000.  Lord Byron called
Venice "a fairy city of the heart" and it has earned the nickname
La Serenissima, "The Most Serene."  Venice actually consists of
117 bodies of land connected by more than 400 bridges over its
150 canals.  The Grand Canal is like main street cutting through
the center of the city.

Venice is one of Italy's top travel cities and a beautiful, romantic
destination with many attractions.  It is a unique cityscape of
well-worn buildings that seem to float on water and marble
steps that descend into lapping waters.  Its small, traffic-free
streets along the winding canals make for great walking.  
Positioned at the crossroads of the Byzantine and Roman
worlds, Venice acquired a unique heritage of art, architecture,
and culture.  Today, the hordes of traders and merchants that
swarmed Venice have been replaced by tourists, but there is so
much to see here that you can still have the "real Venice" all to
yourself in the many charming alleys, magnificent churches and
palaces, bridges, lively piazzas and interesting shops hiding
just off the beaten track.

Upon arrival, we proceeded to St. Geremia Church to visit the
tomb of St. Lucy, patroness of sight.  

As a backgrounder, Lucy, a virgin and martyr born to noble
parents, was from Syracuse in Sicily.  In paintings, she is often
depicted holding a pair of eyes on a platter. In 303, during the
persecutions of Christians by the Emperor Diocletian, she was put to death by sword after refusing to become a
prostitute.  That was after her tormenters tried to set her on fire.

Like so many of the early martyrs, Lucy had consecrated her virginity to God, and she hoped to devote all her worldly
goods to the service of the poor. Her mother was not so single-minded, but an occasion offered itself when Lucy could
carry out her generous resolutions.  The fame of the virgin-martyr Agatha, who had been executed fifty-two years before,
was attracting numerous visitors to her relics at Catania, and many miracles had been wrought through her
intercession.  Lucy’s mother was therefore persuaded to make a pilgrimage to Catania, in the hope of being cured of a
hemorrhage, from which she had been suffering for several years.  There she was in fact cured, and Lucy, availing
herself of the opportunity, persuaded her mother to allow her to distribute a great part of her riches among the poor.

The largess stirred the greed of the unworthy youth to whom Lucy had been unwillingly betrothed, and he denounced her
to Paschasius, the Governor of Sicily.  She was first of all condemned to suffer the shame of prostitution; but in the
strength of God she stood immovable, so that they could not drag her away to the place of shame.  Bundles of wood
were then heaped about her and set on fire, and again God saved her.  Finally, she met her death by the sword.

After the mass officiated by Fr. Jerry, a different local guide picked
us up for a walking tour of the city.  But first, we had to take the
vaporetto that would take us to St. Mark’s Square.  A vaporetto is
a water bus that takes both locals and visitors to the places they
want and need to go throughout Venice.  Because traveling the
canals is the easiest way to get around the city, the vaporetto has
long been the most efficient and cost-effective mode of
transportation, aside from walking.  Riding in the front offers the
best views, so if you're able to grab the forward seats, go for it.  
This will give you the opportunity to snap a lot of great pictures
along your journey.

For me, the vaporetto was a novel experience, compared to the
gondola which we took a year ago, since it takes you right
through the Grand Canal.  Also known by Venetians as
Canalazzo, the Grand Canal is the major water-traffic corridor
sweeping through this amazing city.

Rialto Bridge

The canal is an ancient waterway, lined with buildings - about
170 in all - that were mostly built from the 13th to the 18th
centuries.  Most were constructed by wealthy Venetian families.  
It snakes through the city of Venice in a large ‘S’ shape, traveling
from the Saint Mark Basin on one end to a lagoon near the Santa
Lucia rail station on the other.   Believed to follow the course of
an ancient river, the Grand Canal measures 3,800 meters (2.36
miles) long and ranges from 30 to 90 meters (about 100-300
feet) wide.  In most places, the canal is approximately 5 meters
(16 feet) deep.

By this time, the temp has considerably gone up to a boiling heat
of 300C, quite uncomfortable for my taste.  Our first stop was St.
Mark’s Square.

As the largest square in the city and the only one given the
designation of "piazza" (the others are all referred to as "campi"),
St. Mark's Square has always been the location of important
government buildings and other facilities central to the goings on
in Venice.  It is known for the two columns located there that pay