Pilgrimage Travelogue
A highly spiritual journey of a
lifetime
a highly
A highly spiritual journey of a
lifetime
a highly
allowing light to illuminate the interior. The basilica sits on the river’s edge and is a beautiful building in a lovely setting.
When one goes on a pilgrimage, a certain web of grace connects people and places in surprising and unexpected, if not
mysterious, ways. For me, one of the great surprises of our pilgrimage was in Paray-le-Monial. I knew that the moment I
stepped off the bus, my experience in Paray-le-Monial will be different from the rest. And I was right. So allow me to delve
deeply into this portion of my pilgrimage experience.
The most venerated spot in Paray-le-Monial is the Chapel of the Visitation, where most of the apparitions to Saint Margaret
Mary Alacoque, a French Roman Catholic nun and mystic, who promoted devotion to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, took
place.
As a backgrounder, Margaret, from early childhood, was described as showing intense love for the Blessed Sacrament
(the Eucharist), and who had preferred silence and prayer to childhood play. After her First Communion at the age of 9,
she practiced in secret severe corporal mortification, including carving the name "Jesus" into her chest as an adolescent
until rheumatic fever confined her to bed for 4 years. At the end of this period, having made a vow to the Blessed Virgin to
consecrate herself to religious life, she was instantly restored to perfect health.
She had visions of Jesus Christ, which she thought were a normal part of human experience and continued to practice
austerity. However, in response to a vision of Christ, crucified but alive, that reproached her for forgetfulness of him,
claiming his Heart was filled with love for her due to her promise, she entered the convent at age 24 intending to become
a nun. It was then that she changed her baptismal name of Marguerite (Margaret) to her religious name of Marguerite-
Marie (Margaret Mary).
In this convent, she received several revelations of the Sacred Heart. The visions revealed to her the form of the devotion,
the chief features being reception of Holy Communion on the First Friday Devotions of each month, the Eucharistic
adoration during the Holy Hour on Thursdays, and the celebration of the Feast of the Sacred Heart. She stated that in her
vision, she was instructed to spend an hour every Thursday night to meditate on the sufferings of Jesus in the Garden of
Gethsemane. The Holy Hour practice later became widespread among Catholics.
Pix
Anyhow, we waited outside the church for an ongoing mass to be finished, after which we then entered the Chapel of the
Visitation where Fr. Jerry celebrated Mass. As I knelt at the beginning of the Eucharistic prayer, my eyes were riveted to
the area above the Altar of Sacrifice where there is a powerful mural depicting that moment when the Heart of Jesus
united itself forever with St. Margaret Mary’s heart and that of St. Claude Colombiere, the community's confessor at that
time, His two faithful servants.
My eyes then traveled to the right side of the main Altar where there is a grille. It was there, behind that very grille, that
Margaret Mary heard Mass and received Holy Communion. It was there where she went into ecstasy, where Our Lord
Jesus, present in the Blessed Sacrament exposed on the Altar, gave her the message of Love she was to spread to the
whole world. It was there that He showed her His wounded Heart and asked her to establish a Feast in honor of His
Sacred Heart.
Personally, it was at that moment that I felt some stirrings in my soul where I felt I was “closest” to God, an experience that
I don’t think will ever be recaptured again in my lifetime. Could it be because I was not distracted by taking pictures here
and there that I was able to just focus on our Lord? My answer is a simple “I really don’t know.” As far as I was
concerned, my spirituality was never the same after that.
When one goes on a pilgrimage, a certain web of grace connects people and places in surprising and unexpected, if not
mysterious, ways. For me, one of the great surprises of our pilgrimage was in Paray-le-Monial. I knew that the moment I
stepped off the bus, my experience in Paray-le-Monial will be different from the rest. And I was right. So allow me to delve
deeply into this portion of my pilgrimage experience.
The most venerated spot in Paray-le-Monial is the Chapel of the Visitation, where most of the apparitions to Saint Margaret
Mary Alacoque, a French Roman Catholic nun and mystic, who promoted devotion to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, took
place.
As a backgrounder, Margaret, from early childhood, was described as showing intense love for the Blessed Sacrament
(the Eucharist), and who had preferred silence and prayer to childhood play. After her First Communion at the age of 9,
she practiced in secret severe corporal mortification, including carving the name "Jesus" into her chest as an adolescent
until rheumatic fever confined her to bed for 4 years. At the end of this period, having made a vow to the Blessed Virgin to
consecrate herself to religious life, she was instantly restored to perfect health.
She had visions of Jesus Christ, which she thought were a normal part of human experience and continued to practice
austerity. However, in response to a vision of Christ, crucified but alive, that reproached her for forgetfulness of him,
claiming his Heart was filled with love for her due to her promise, she entered the convent at age 24 intending to become
a nun. It was then that she changed her baptismal name of Marguerite (Margaret) to her religious name of Marguerite-
Marie (Margaret Mary).
In this convent, she received several revelations of the Sacred Heart. The visions revealed to her the form of the devotion,
the chief features being reception of Holy Communion on the First Friday Devotions of each month, the Eucharistic
adoration during the Holy Hour on Thursdays, and the celebration of the Feast of the Sacred Heart. She stated that in her
vision, she was instructed to spend an hour every Thursday night to meditate on the sufferings of Jesus in the Garden of
Gethsemane. The Holy Hour practice later became widespread among Catholics.
Pix
Anyhow, we waited outside the church for an ongoing mass to be finished, after which we then entered the Chapel of the
Visitation where Fr. Jerry celebrated Mass. As I knelt at the beginning of the Eucharistic prayer, my eyes were riveted to
the area above the Altar of Sacrifice where there is a powerful mural depicting that moment when the Heart of Jesus
united itself forever with St. Margaret Mary’s heart and that of St. Claude Colombiere, the community's confessor at that
time, His two faithful servants.
My eyes then traveled to the right side of the main Altar where there is a grille. It was there, behind that very grille, that
Margaret Mary heard Mass and received Holy Communion. It was there where she went into ecstasy, where Our Lord
Jesus, present in the Blessed Sacrament exposed on the Altar, gave her the message of Love she was to spread to the
whole world. It was there that He showed her His wounded Heart and asked her to establish a Feast in honor of His
Sacred Heart.
Personally, it was at that moment that I felt some stirrings in my soul where I felt I was “closest” to God, an experience that
I don’t think will ever be recaptured again in my lifetime. Could it be because I was not distracted by taking pictures here
and there that I was able to just focus on our Lord? My answer is a simple “I really don’t know.” As far as I was
concerned, my spirituality was never the same after that.
Part 2B
By Susie “Chie” R. Cuñada
Once-in-a-lifetime experiences are as exhilarating as they are enriching. As a matter of fact, unique, one-of-a kind events
that create a lasting memory are one of the great reasons to travel. And a pilgrimage tour is no exception. For those of you
who are not Catholics, Mr. Webster defines pilgrimage as a “journey to a sacred place or shrine.”
Personally, I’m fascinated by the ways in which travel and spirituality intersect. Certain places have an almost magnetic pull
on our souls, whether they’re to a holy site in a distant land or to a place of private meaning for a single person. But one
thing that makes the pilgrimage different is the attitude toward it. However skeptical one may be about the basis of the
pilgrimage and the supposedly “legends” surrounding it, one cannot help but be affected by it. And although it is not free of
contradictions, one of its many little ironies is that the first step toward this state entails a certain amount of very practical
preparation ahead of time. Yes, it's difficult to find the time and money, and even more difficult to do, but for those who want
something more, you'll find it in your soul. As it did in mine.
Fr. Jerry was our spiritual director for this tour
Part 2b
By Susie “Chie” R. Cuñada
Thereafter, we proceeded to, and had Benediction at, the Convent where the Infant Jesus appeared to Venerable Margaret
of the Most Blessed Sacrament and gave her the Chaplet prayer to remember the 12 years of His childhood.
(Photos above)
As a backgrounder, Margaret at age 5 received her first vision of the Child Jesus. At age 11, she made her First
Communion, and then later the same day joined the Carmelites. The girl was soon afflicted with convulsions, rigidity in the
limbs, and a constant feeling of fear and oppression. Doctors performed a useless operation that left her with lifelong head
pain. Margaret and the mother superior of the house decided the girl was under demonic attack, and she was cured by
prayer. Soon after, Margaret began to have visions and to fall into ecstasies during prayer. She began to relive the
mysteries of the life of Our Lord as each came up in the liturgical calendar. Following a request by Christ in a vision, she
helped build a chapel in the nearby monastery of Saint Etienne. She died at age 29, having lived her life in devotion to the
Child Jesus and Holy Family.
By Susie “Chie” R. Cuñada
Once-in-a-lifetime experiences are as exhilarating as they are enriching. As a matter of fact, unique, one-of-a kind events
that create a lasting memory are one of the great reasons to travel. And a pilgrimage tour is no exception. For those of you
who are not Catholics, Mr. Webster defines pilgrimage as a “journey to a sacred place or shrine.”
Personally, I’m fascinated by the ways in which travel and spirituality intersect. Certain places have an almost magnetic pull
on our souls, whether they’re to a holy site in a distant land or to a place of private meaning for a single person. But one
thing that makes the pilgrimage different is the attitude toward it. However skeptical one may be about the basis of the
pilgrimage and the supposedly “legends” surrounding it, one cannot help but be affected by it. And although it is not free of
contradictions, one of its many little ironies is that the first step toward this state entails a certain amount of very practical
preparation ahead of time. Yes, it's difficult to find the time and money, and even more difficult to do, but for those who want
something more, you'll find it in your soul. As it did in mine.
Fr. Jerry was our spiritual director for this tour
Part 2b
By Susie “Chie” R. Cuñada
Thereafter, we proceeded to, and had Benediction at, the Convent where the Infant Jesus appeared to Venerable Margaret
of the Most Blessed Sacrament and gave her the Chaplet prayer to remember the 12 years of His childhood.
(Photos above)
As a backgrounder, Margaret at age 5 received her first vision of the Child Jesus. At age 11, she made her First
Communion, and then later the same day joined the Carmelites. The girl was soon afflicted with convulsions, rigidity in the
limbs, and a constant feeling of fear and oppression. Doctors performed a useless operation that left her with lifelong head
pain. Margaret and the mother superior of the house decided the girl was under demonic attack, and she was cured by
prayer. Soon after, Margaret began to have visions and to fall into ecstasies during prayer. She began to relive the
mysteries of the life of Our Lord as each came up in the liturgical calendar. Following a request by Christ in a vision, she
helped build a chapel in the nearby monastery of Saint Etienne. She died at age 29, having lived her life in devotion to the
Child Jesus and Holy Family.
Thereafter, we proceeded to Ars, a small city northwest of Lyon, to visit the
shrine of St. John Vianney.
As a backgrounder, St. Jean-Marie (John) Vianney was the parish priest (curé)
of Ars. During his lifetime, St. John Vianney founded an orphanage for girls
and became internationally famous for his spiritual direction. He was known for
his powerful sermons, personal example of holiness and his ability to perform
miracles. He was said to be able to read souls in the confessional and predict
future events.
Throughout France there was a saying, "There is a holy man in Ars; go and see
him." And people did - between 1830 and 1845, an average of 300 people
visited Ars every day to meet with St. John Vianney. He slept only two hours a
night so he could serve all the pilgrims, and spent up to 17 hours a day hearing
confessions. The Curé of Ars also ate little, dressed in old clothes and slept on
a hard bed. He was said to have been attacked by the Devil regularly, including
one famous incident in which the Devil set the saint's bed on fire.
The Sanctuary of St. John Vianney contains several sites of interest to pilgrims
and tourists alike. It has two churches: the old 12th-century church where St.
John Vianney preached, and a new basilica that displays his preserved body in
a glass case. The saint's heart is enshrined in a smaller separate building, the
Shrine of the Cure's Heart.
Pilgrims can also visit the home of the Curé of Ars, which was preserved the
way he left it. It contains the very bed set on fire by the devil as well as the
saint's rosary, breviary, library and other personal items. Other sights include
the Underground Church designed for large groups of pilgrims, a film on the life
and work of the saint, a wax museum, and the orphanage founded by the Curé,
called La Providence. St. John Vianney, the patron saint of parish priests, died
on August 4, 1859. In 1874, Pope Pius IX declared him Venerable, and he was
canonized a Saint by Pope Pius XI in 1925.
Anyhow, after fulfilling my 3 wishes and photo ops, we proceeded to Paray-le-
Monial, mainly known for its Romanesque church, the Basilica du Sacré-Coeur,
and is home to the devotion of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The basilica is a fine,
well-proportioned building, with the different parts of the building 'stacked'
against the octagonal central tower, and having windows at various levels
shrine of St. John Vianney.
As a backgrounder, St. Jean-Marie (John) Vianney was the parish priest (curé)
of Ars. During his lifetime, St. John Vianney founded an orphanage for girls
and became internationally famous for his spiritual direction. He was known for
his powerful sermons, personal example of holiness and his ability to perform
miracles. He was said to be able to read souls in the confessional and predict
future events.
Throughout France there was a saying, "There is a holy man in Ars; go and see
him." And people did - between 1830 and 1845, an average of 300 people
visited Ars every day to meet with St. John Vianney. He slept only two hours a
night so he could serve all the pilgrims, and spent up to 17 hours a day hearing
confessions. The Curé of Ars also ate little, dressed in old clothes and slept on
a hard bed. He was said to have been attacked by the Devil regularly, including
one famous incident in which the Devil set the saint's bed on fire.
The Sanctuary of St. John Vianney contains several sites of interest to pilgrims
and tourists alike. It has two churches: the old 12th-century church where St.
John Vianney preached, and a new basilica that displays his preserved body in
a glass case. The saint's heart is enshrined in a smaller separate building, the
Shrine of the Cure's Heart.
Pilgrims can also visit the home of the Curé of Ars, which was preserved the
way he left it. It contains the very bed set on fire by the devil as well as the
saint's rosary, breviary, library and other personal items. Other sights include
the Underground Church designed for large groups of pilgrims, a film on the life
and work of the saint, a wax museum, and the orphanage founded by the Curé,
called La Providence. St. John Vianney, the patron saint of parish priests, died
on August 4, 1859. In 1874, Pope Pius IX declared him Venerable, and he was
canonized a Saint by Pope Pius XI in 1925.
Anyhow, after fulfilling my 3 wishes and photo ops, we proceeded to Paray-le-
Monial, mainly known for its Romanesque church, the Basilica du Sacré-Coeur,
and is home to the devotion of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The basilica is a fine,
well-proportioned building, with the different parts of the building 'stacked'
against the octagonal central tower, and having windows at various levels
Provence / Marseille (France)
After packing my uneaten breakfast, the group set out for the region of
Provence to experience an ancient pilgrimage to the sites made
famous by Mary Magdalene.
I could hardly contain my excitement, especially after I have learned
that the tomb of Mary Magdalene at St. Maximin is the third most
important tomb in the world. It comes immediately after the tomb of
Jesus at Jerusalem and that of St. Peter at Rome. So you can just
imagine how excited I was. However, my excitement turned to
disappointment when I learned we could no longer go up to the grotto
at St. Baume because the road leading up to it is no longer safe.
Do not get confused. The Grotto of St. Baume is the cave where Mary
Magdalene is said to have stayed for the last 30 years of her life. The
word "beaume" means caves or grottos. To get to the grotto requires
a 20-minute car ride up winding roads in the St. Baume Mountains,
and then a 45-minute walk up a footpath. On the other hand, the tomb
of Mary Magdalene is at St. Maximin, a charming and ancient town,
where the 14th century Basilica of Mary Magdalene was built to hold
her relics and contains her crypt.
Anyhow, we met our tour guide who gave us a very detailed historical
account of the life of Mary Magdalene and then took us to the Basilica
and descended into the small crypt.
To your left and to your right you’ll see four marble sarcophagi, dating
from the 4th century. They are believed to contain the remains of Mary
Magdalene and four other saints, including St. Maximin. In the rear of
the crypt you discern a golden statue with a darkish mask. Coming
closer you discover that the mask is in effect a skull, its eye sockets
staring at you in defiance or reprimand. We learned that this is the
cranium of Mary Magdalene! How did these relics get here, you wonder
Suspend your disbelief for just a moment, and follow the legend of
Mary Magdalene in Provence. We’ll start with her departure from the
shores of Palestine and end in the crypt of the Basilica in Saint
Maximin.
First, a brief history of Mary Magdalene’s pre-Provencal life. The
Gospels have little information on her. We read that she followed
Jesus, had seven demons exorcised from her, was present at the
Crucifixion, and was the first person to see Jesus after his
Resurrection. Christian tradition weaves a further tale: she was a
woman of loose morals, to say the least, who repented after she
encountered Jesus, then led a life of faithfulness and purity.
In the same tradition, Magdalene’s legend expands: persecuted by the
Jews of Jerusalem, she and a group of other disciples are cast off in a
boat without sails or oars. In this group we also find Mary, mother of
James, another Mary, mother of James Major and John, Maximinus,
Lazarus and Sarah, an Egyptian servant. Miraculously they survive the
perilous voyage and safely land on the shores of southern Provence.
After packing my uneaten breakfast, the group set out for the region of
Provence to experience an ancient pilgrimage to the sites made
famous by Mary Magdalene.
I could hardly contain my excitement, especially after I have learned
that the tomb of Mary Magdalene at St. Maximin is the third most
important tomb in the world. It comes immediately after the tomb of
Jesus at Jerusalem and that of St. Peter at Rome. So you can just
imagine how excited I was. However, my excitement turned to
disappointment when I learned we could no longer go up to the grotto
at St. Baume because the road leading up to it is no longer safe.
Do not get confused. The Grotto of St. Baume is the cave where Mary
Magdalene is said to have stayed for the last 30 years of her life. The
word "beaume" means caves or grottos. To get to the grotto requires
a 20-minute car ride up winding roads in the St. Baume Mountains,
and then a 45-minute walk up a footpath. On the other hand, the tomb
of Mary Magdalene is at St. Maximin, a charming and ancient town,
where the 14th century Basilica of Mary Magdalene was built to hold
her relics and contains her crypt.
Anyhow, we met our tour guide who gave us a very detailed historical
account of the life of Mary Magdalene and then took us to the Basilica
and descended into the small crypt.
To your left and to your right you’ll see four marble sarcophagi, dating
from the 4th century. They are believed to contain the remains of Mary
Magdalene and four other saints, including St. Maximin. In the rear of
the crypt you discern a golden statue with a darkish mask. Coming
closer you discover that the mask is in effect a skull, its eye sockets
staring at you in defiance or reprimand. We learned that this is the
cranium of Mary Magdalene! How did these relics get here, you wonder
Suspend your disbelief for just a moment, and follow the legend of
Mary Magdalene in Provence. We’ll start with her departure from the
shores of Palestine and end in the crypt of the Basilica in Saint
Maximin.
First, a brief history of Mary Magdalene’s pre-Provencal life. The
Gospels have little information on her. We read that she followed
Jesus, had seven demons exorcised from her, was present at the
Crucifixion, and was the first person to see Jesus after his
Resurrection. Christian tradition weaves a further tale: she was a
woman of loose morals, to say the least, who repented after she
encountered Jesus, then led a life of faithfulness and purity.
In the same tradition, Magdalene’s legend expands: persecuted by the
Jews of Jerusalem, she and a group of other disciples are cast off in a
boat without sails or oars. In this group we also find Mary, mother of
James, another Mary, mother of James Major and John, Maximinus,
Lazarus and Sarah, an Egyptian servant. Miraculously they survive the
perilous voyage and safely land on the shores of southern Provence.
Soon afterwards, the group splits up. Mary Magdalene travels north to the
region of Ste. Baume. The two other Marys stay behind in the place where
they landed, together with Sarah, the servant girl. Their residence is now
the town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, a place of pilgrimage to honor the
arrival of the three Marys, and the burial of two. Every year, gypsies, who
have adopted Sarah as their patron saint, participate in the processions
in full color and glory. But that’s a subject for another story!
Mary Magdalene, in the meantime, travels throughout Provence,
preaching the gospel. Then she retires to a cave near Ste. Baume for a
life of retreat and contemplation. After 33 years she dies, having received
the last rites from Maximinus, who buries her in the grotto. Her resting
place becomes a centre of pilgrimage. Then in the 11th century her
remains disappear. First it was thought that they had been stolen and
taken to Vézelay (relics were important business in the Middle Ages; they
attracted thousands of pilgrims and added to the wealth of the Church).
However, in 1279 the Count of Provence, Charles d’Anjou, discovers her
remains in a sarcophagus beneath the simple church at St. Maximin, after
the saint herself appeared in a dream. Whether this was a convenient
way of taking the business away from Vézelay or a genuine discovery, no
one knows. But don’t be cynical and follow what happened after this
miraculous recovery.
With the blessing of the Pope, Charles d’Anjou begins to build the
enormous Basilica on the site of the crypt. Onto it is a monastery to house
the Dominican friars who are in charge of the relics of Mary Magdalene
(until 1957). The work starts in 1295 and continues until 1532. As with
many churches at that time, it was never finished; it lacks a bell tower, for
instance. But its imposing size, its history and its interior make it a special
place in Provence.
While this provincial passage by Mary Magdalene is treated as a legend
by some historians, there is no doubt of its veracity if you speak to the
locals. Today, visitors and pilgrims continue to flock to the Basilica to see
the relics of Mary Magdalene.
Marseille / Lourdes (France)
region of Ste. Baume. The two other Marys stay behind in the place where
they landed, together with Sarah, the servant girl. Their residence is now
the town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, a place of pilgrimage to honor the
arrival of the three Marys, and the burial of two. Every year, gypsies, who
have adopted Sarah as their patron saint, participate in the processions
in full color and glory. But that’s a subject for another story!
Mary Magdalene, in the meantime, travels throughout Provence,
preaching the gospel. Then she retires to a cave near Ste. Baume for a
life of retreat and contemplation. After 33 years she dies, having received
the last rites from Maximinus, who buries her in the grotto. Her resting
place becomes a centre of pilgrimage. Then in the 11th century her
remains disappear. First it was thought that they had been stolen and
taken to Vézelay (relics were important business in the Middle Ages; they
attracted thousands of pilgrims and added to the wealth of the Church).
However, in 1279 the Count of Provence, Charles d’Anjou, discovers her
remains in a sarcophagus beneath the simple church at St. Maximin, after
the saint herself appeared in a dream. Whether this was a convenient
way of taking the business away from Vézelay or a genuine discovery, no
one knows. But don’t be cynical and follow what happened after this
miraculous recovery.
With the blessing of the Pope, Charles d’Anjou begins to build the
enormous Basilica on the site of the crypt. Onto it is a monastery to house
the Dominican friars who are in charge of the relics of Mary Magdalene
(until 1957). The work starts in 1295 and continues until 1532. As with
many churches at that time, it was never finished; it lacks a bell tower, for
instance. But its imposing size, its history and its interior make it a special
place in Provence.
While this provincial passage by Mary Magdalene is treated as a legend
by some historians, there is no doubt of its veracity if you speak to the
locals. Today, visitors and pilgrims continue to flock to the Basilica to see
the relics of Mary Magdalene.
Marseille / Lourdes (France)
With its terracotta-roofed buildings the color of cracked wheat, ripened apricot and blanched almond scattered around
the mistral-whipped sea, Marseille is infused with a perceptible and irrepressible energy. This gritty, grimy and
gloriously real city – France’s oldest and largest after Paris – isn’t gentrified like its Provencal counterparts. But its
rough-and-tumble edginess, wailing sirens and litter-swirled streets, and its coastal rocky inlets, coves and sun-baked
beaches, are chock-a-block with treasures.
Pulsing to a sultry southern European tempo, Marseille also beats to the drum of neighboring North Africa. Its fusion of
cultures is best experienced at its thronging street markets of Provencal produce stalls, Algerian souk-like bazaars, and
fresh-off-the-boat catches splayed along the Vieux Port’s docks at its centuries-old fish market, selling the base
ingredients for the local specialty fish stew, bouillabaisse. Its name literally translates to its cooking method - when it
boils (bouillir), lower the heat to a simmer (baisser) – which is maybe a good recipe for handling the heady, heated
melting pot that is Marseille.
A city of many attractions - the sea, the sun, nature and culture - Marseille is proud of its strong tradition of accessibility
and its people’s warm hospitality. Just consider the following:
• A unique seafront with 57 km of coastline overlooking the Mediterranean Sea
• A tourist spot in the heart of the Mediterranean
• A cosmopolitan and vibrant city that attracts throngs of tourists from all over the world every year
• Officially listed as a city of art and history, Marseille is creating an economic and cultural vitality that is booming
today
• It has positioned itself as the French and Mediterranean city of reference for conventions and seminars
• It is also the flagship city for cruises in France and an indisputable stop for the world’s largest cruise lines
• Easy to access: international airport, low-cost air terminal, high-speed train, motorways, etc.
• Easy to live: metro, tramway, bus, etc.
• Easy to love: mild temperatures, maximum sunshine, beautiful landscapes, warm and inviting culture
• So much to explore: palaces, Greek and Roman ruins, churches and cathedrals, castles and botanical gardens,
etc.
• The European Capital of Culture 2013 (The title of European Capital of Culture was created in 1985 by the
European Union with a view to bringing Europeans closer together and asserting the central role cities play in the arts
and culture)
• It is the second most filmed city in France with nearly 1,200 film shoots over the last 10 years
• It has the second largest film studios in France
• It is France’s second most important centre for diplomacy with 70 consulates, numerous international institutions,
13 twin cities, around 20 cooperative agreements, etc.
• A culinary stopover with restaurants starred and listed by the Michelin guide
• A cultural centre of grand scale with 17 museums, 42 theatres and 12 cinemas plus international events
• No. 2 research centre in France
Knowing all of the above, wouldn’t you be excited to explore Marseille, just as I was? I became more excited when
Bennie told us that she had a surprise for us (it was not indicated in our itinerary) - a visit to Basilique Notre Dame de la
Garde (Basilica of Our Lady of the Guard).
Locals commonly refer to the basilica as La Bonne Mere (the Good Mother). This ornate Neo-Byzantine church sits atop
the signal hill of La Garde, a 162m (532 ft) limestone outcrop on the south side of the Vieux Port that is the highest
natural point in Marseille. The basilica was built on the site of a 13th-century chapel also dedicated to Our Lady of the
Guard, filled with the ex-votos of safely returned sailors. The basilica is surmounted by a 60-metre (197 ft) belfry topped
with a huge statue of the Virgin and Child, visible across much of the city and from miles out at sea. The basilica took
five years to build and required 170,000 tons of material, including 23 shiploads of marble and porphyry from Italy.
And although the exterior of the church is stunning in its stature and attention to detail, there is perhaps nothing more
impressive than the ornate upper chapel, dedicated to the Virgin Mother. From the elaborate mosaics and colored inlaid
marble to the impressive statues and amazing works of art, the basilica was indeed meant to be a place worth for a
dedication to the mother of Jesus. It was certainly considered to be one of the finest examples of this kind of
architecture at the time it was constructed and is still treasured around the world. There are side chapels, vaults,
domes, a crypt, and virtually limitless things to explore around every corner at the basilica. For true lovers of history and
culture, especially those with an affinity for classical churches, this is an absolute must-see if you are planning a trip to
Marseille.
(Above Right photos)
Visitors come here not only for the church but also for the view - best seen at sunset - from its terrace. The panoramic
vista includes the city, the islands, and the sea.
Anyhow, after a hearty breakfast, we set out to get to the highest point of the city. Our Italian driver had to navigate
narrow, steep and winding roads on hairpin turns to reach the summit where the basilica stands. It was very windy that
day, about 50-150 km/hr wind speed, which apparently happens 100 days a year. And that day was one of those days. I
noticed that there were ropes available to hold on to when you cross the top of the building to go inside the basilica.
You can hear the winds howling outside the basilica while we were having mass, so you can just imagine how VERY
windy it was that day.
Anyhow, as soon as I entered the basilica, I immediately noticed the contrast between the light outside and the
shadows inside. It is unique and the visual power draws you in and takes you by surprise. I couldn’t help but look up at
the mosaics during mass. My description would just fall short of how majestic they really are. You have to see it for
yourself.
After mass, we were scheduled to have a tour of the basilica but the tour guide refused to start unless everybody was in
attendance. But some people in the group took it upon themselves to return to the bus immediately after mass, so we
ended up with no tour. I had to remind myself that I was a pilgrim, not a tourist, so I kept my cool and just took photos of
the awesome place. How I wish I could return to this place someday.
the mistral-whipped sea, Marseille is infused with a perceptible and irrepressible energy. This gritty, grimy and
gloriously real city – France’s oldest and largest after Paris – isn’t gentrified like its Provencal counterparts. But its
rough-and-tumble edginess, wailing sirens and litter-swirled streets, and its coastal rocky inlets, coves and sun-baked
beaches, are chock-a-block with treasures.
Pulsing to a sultry southern European tempo, Marseille also beats to the drum of neighboring North Africa. Its fusion of
cultures is best experienced at its thronging street markets of Provencal produce stalls, Algerian souk-like bazaars, and
fresh-off-the-boat catches splayed along the Vieux Port’s docks at its centuries-old fish market, selling the base
ingredients for the local specialty fish stew, bouillabaisse. Its name literally translates to its cooking method - when it
boils (bouillir), lower the heat to a simmer (baisser) – which is maybe a good recipe for handling the heady, heated
melting pot that is Marseille.
A city of many attractions - the sea, the sun, nature and culture - Marseille is proud of its strong tradition of accessibility
and its people’s warm hospitality. Just consider the following:
• A unique seafront with 57 km of coastline overlooking the Mediterranean Sea
• A tourist spot in the heart of the Mediterranean
• A cosmopolitan and vibrant city that attracts throngs of tourists from all over the world every year
• Officially listed as a city of art and history, Marseille is creating an economic and cultural vitality that is booming
today
• It has positioned itself as the French and Mediterranean city of reference for conventions and seminars
• It is also the flagship city for cruises in France and an indisputable stop for the world’s largest cruise lines
• Easy to access: international airport, low-cost air terminal, high-speed train, motorways, etc.
• Easy to live: metro, tramway, bus, etc.
• Easy to love: mild temperatures, maximum sunshine, beautiful landscapes, warm and inviting culture
• So much to explore: palaces, Greek and Roman ruins, churches and cathedrals, castles and botanical gardens,
etc.
• The European Capital of Culture 2013 (The title of European Capital of Culture was created in 1985 by the
European Union with a view to bringing Europeans closer together and asserting the central role cities play in the arts
and culture)
• It is the second most filmed city in France with nearly 1,200 film shoots over the last 10 years
• It has the second largest film studios in France
• It is France’s second most important centre for diplomacy with 70 consulates, numerous international institutions,
13 twin cities, around 20 cooperative agreements, etc.
• A culinary stopover with restaurants starred and listed by the Michelin guide
• A cultural centre of grand scale with 17 museums, 42 theatres and 12 cinemas plus international events
• No. 2 research centre in France
Knowing all of the above, wouldn’t you be excited to explore Marseille, just as I was? I became more excited when
Bennie told us that she had a surprise for us (it was not indicated in our itinerary) - a visit to Basilique Notre Dame de la
Garde (Basilica of Our Lady of the Guard).
Locals commonly refer to the basilica as La Bonne Mere (the Good Mother). This ornate Neo-Byzantine church sits atop
the signal hill of La Garde, a 162m (532 ft) limestone outcrop on the south side of the Vieux Port that is the highest
natural point in Marseille. The basilica was built on the site of a 13th-century chapel also dedicated to Our Lady of the
Guard, filled with the ex-votos of safely returned sailors. The basilica is surmounted by a 60-metre (197 ft) belfry topped
with a huge statue of the Virgin and Child, visible across much of the city and from miles out at sea. The basilica took
five years to build and required 170,000 tons of material, including 23 shiploads of marble and porphyry from Italy.
And although the exterior of the church is stunning in its stature and attention to detail, there is perhaps nothing more
impressive than the ornate upper chapel, dedicated to the Virgin Mother. From the elaborate mosaics and colored inlaid
marble to the impressive statues and amazing works of art, the basilica was indeed meant to be a place worth for a
dedication to the mother of Jesus. It was certainly considered to be one of the finest examples of this kind of
architecture at the time it was constructed and is still treasured around the world. There are side chapels, vaults,
domes, a crypt, and virtually limitless things to explore around every corner at the basilica. For true lovers of history and
culture, especially those with an affinity for classical churches, this is an absolute must-see if you are planning a trip to
Marseille.
(Above Right photos)
Visitors come here not only for the church but also for the view - best seen at sunset - from its terrace. The panoramic
vista includes the city, the islands, and the sea.
Anyhow, after a hearty breakfast, we set out to get to the highest point of the city. Our Italian driver had to navigate
narrow, steep and winding roads on hairpin turns to reach the summit where the basilica stands. It was very windy that
day, about 50-150 km/hr wind speed, which apparently happens 100 days a year. And that day was one of those days. I
noticed that there were ropes available to hold on to when you cross the top of the building to go inside the basilica.
You can hear the winds howling outside the basilica while we were having mass, so you can just imagine how VERY
windy it was that day.
Anyhow, as soon as I entered the basilica, I immediately noticed the contrast between the light outside and the
shadows inside. It is unique and the visual power draws you in and takes you by surprise. I couldn’t help but look up at
the mosaics during mass. My description would just fall short of how majestic they really are. You have to see it for
yourself.
After mass, we were scheduled to have a tour of the basilica but the tour guide refused to start unless everybody was in
attendance. But some people in the group took it upon themselves to return to the bus immediately after mass, so we
ended up with no tour. I had to remind myself that I was a pilgrim, not a tourist, so I kept my cool and just took photos of
the awesome place. How I wish I could return to this place someday.