Pilgrimage Travelogue
A highly spiritual journey of a
lifetime
a highly
If there was a room for the poor people, there was also a room for the rich people. Noticed the difference?
Next issue will be about the Venerable Margaret of the Most Blessed Sacrament, the shrine of St. John Vianney. and Mary
Magdalene.
The incorrupt body of St. Catherine Labouré
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Part 2a
By Susie “Chie” R. Cuñada
Once-in-a-lifetime experiences are as exhilarating as they are enriching. As a matter of fact, unique, one-of-a kind events
that create a lasting memory are one of the great reasons to travel. And a pilgrimage tour is no exception. For those of you
who are not Catholics, Mr. Webster defines pilgrimage as a “journey to a sacred place or shrine.”
Personally, I’m fascinated by the ways in which travel and spirituality intersect. Certain places have an almost magnetic
pull on our souls, whether they’re to a holy site in a distant land or to a place of private meaning for a single person. But
one thing that makes the pilgrimage different is the attitude toward it. However skeptical one may be about the basis of the
pilgrimage and the supposedly “legends” surrounding it, one cannot help but be affected by it. And although it is not free of
contradictions, one of its many little ironies is that the first step toward this state entails a certain amount of very practical
preparation ahead of time. Yes, it's difficult to find the time and money, and even more difficult to do, but for those who
want something more, you'll find it in your soul. As it did in mine.
Fr. Jerry was our spiritual director for this tour
Paris, France
As you all know, Paris is not only the seat of France's national government but is also one of the most populated
metropolitan areas in Europe. Paris today is one of the world's leading business and cultural centers, and its influences
in politics, education, entertainment, media, fashion, science, and the arts all contribute to its status as one of the world's
major global cities.
With about 42 million tourists per year, Paris is the most visited city in the world. It is also considered today to be one of the
most beautiful and vibrant cities in Europe. Three of the most famous Parisian landmarks are the 12th century cathedral
Notre Dame de Paris on the Île de la Cité, the Napoleonic Arc de Triomphe and the 19th century Eiffel Tower. Paris'
museums and monuments are among its highest esteemed attractions. The city's most prized museum, the Louvre,
welcomes over 8 million visitors a year, being by far the world's most visited art
museum. The city's cathedrals, Notre Dame de Paris and the Basilique du Sacré-
Coeur, are the other main attractions which receive 12 million and 8 million visitors,
respectively. The Eiffel Tower, Paris' most famous monument, averages over 6
million visitors per year and more than 200 million since its construction. Having
said all these, do you now understand why I can’t wait to explore the so-called “City
of Lights”?
If you come to visit Paris, don't skip the traditional and romantic Seine river cruise
(photo above left). At 485 miles, the Seine is the second longest and, without a
doubt, the best-known river in France. It travels from Dijon in the Alps, passes
through Paris which it cuts in half, and eventually empties into the English Channel
at Le Havre. This divide by the River Seine through Paris is what gives the city its
distinct geographic division. For instance, the Eiffel Tower and the Musee d'Orsay
are on the south bank, while the Louvre, Grand Palais, and the Concorde can be
found on the north bank. In the centre of Paris on the Ile de la Cite in the middle of
the Seine River, you will find the Notre Dame Cathedral, among other monuments.
And where the river forks in the centre of Paris, it creates two small islands called
the Île de la Cité and the Ile Saint-Louis.
After the Seine River cruise, we were blessed to visit the Chapel of the Miraculous
Medal where the Blessed Mother appeared to St. Catherine Labouré. We
celebrated Mass and thereafter had the opportunity to “come to the foot of the altar”
to see the incorrupt body of St. Catherine Labouré; to be in the presence of the remains of St.
Louise de Marillac; and and to pray before St. Vincent de Paul’s heart --
By way of introduction, the Miraculous Medal, also known as the Medal of the Immaculate
Conception, is a medal created by Saint Catherine Labouré following a vision of the Blessed
Virgin Mary. Many Catholics around the world (and some non-Catholics) wear the Miraculous
Medal, which they believe will bring them special graces through the intercession of Mary if worn
with faith and devotion at the hour of death. Saint Catherine Labouré stated that on the night of
July 18, 1830, she awoke upon hearing a voice of a child calling her to the sisters' chapel where
she heard the Blessed Virgin Mary say to her, "God wishes to charge you with a mission. You
will be contradicted, but do not fear; you will have the grace to do what is necessary. Tell your
spiritual director all that passes within you. Times are evil in France and in the world."
On November 27, 1830, Catherine reported that the Blessed Mother returned during evening
meditations. She displayed herself inside an oval frame, standing upon a globe, wearing many
rings of different colors, most of which shone rays of light over the globe. Around the margin of
the frame appeared the words, “Ô Marie, conçue sans péché, priez pour nous qui avons
recours à vous” (in English, O Mary, conceived without sin, pray for us who have recourse to
thee). As Catherine watched, the frame seemed to rotate, showing a circle of twelve stars, a
large letter M surmounted by a cross, and the stylized Sacred Heart of Jesus crowned with
thorns and Immaculate Heart of Mary pierced with a sword. Asked why some of her rings did
not shed light, Mary reportedly replied, "Those are the graces for which people forget to ask."
Catherine then heard Mary ask her to take these images to her father confessor, telling him that
they should be put on medallions, and saying "All who wear them will receive great graces."
The medal then came to be referred to as the "Miraculous Medal."
Sister Catherine died on December 31, 1876. She was beatified on May 28, 1933. When her body was exhumed, after 57
years of burial, it was found to be completely incorrupt and supple. Catherine was canonized a Saint on July 27, 1947.
I cannot believe that the Chapel is right at the heart of Paris. I noticed that as soon as you open the door and step into the
courtyard, the contrast is incredible. Outside is a jungle of humanity, embracing the world and all its trappings; but inside,
peace and serenity embrace and blanket you. The feeling is simply incredible.
We then proceeded to the Shrine of Saint Vincent de Paul where his life story is recounted in stained glass windows and
where his incorrupt body is preserved. His body rests above the main altar in a solid silver shrine while his heart is kept in
the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal.
Pix
St. Vincent de Paul was born of a peasant family at Pouy, Gascony, France, in 1580, and worked as a shepherd boy on his
father’s farm. At a young age, Vincent had a great desire to become a priest; and after completing his studies for the
priesthood, he was ordained in 1600 and remained in the vicinity of Toulouse, acting as a tutor while continuing his own
studies.
Having traveled to Marseilles for an inheritance and sailing home to Toulouse, Vincent was captured by Turkish pirates in
the year 1605 and was taken to Tunis. He was maltreated and eventually sold as a slave; but he escaped two years later
with his master, a renegade whom he eventually converted to Catholicism. Upon his escape from the Turkish pirates,
Vincent immediately dedicated his life to the practice of spiritual and corporal works of charity. He set up many poor houses
for the crippled and sick and personally cared for the patients who had the most contagious diseases. He would dress
their wounds and nurse them back to health. Indeed there wasn’t a poor man that didn’t know of Vincent’s kindness.
In 1625, Vincent founded the Congregation of the Mission, a society of missioning priests commonly known as the
Vincentians. In 1633, with the assistance of Louise de Marillac, he founded the Daughters of Charity. Vincent worked
always for the poor, the enslaved, the abandoned, the ignored, the pariahs, and was renowned for his compassion, humility
and generosity.
On September 27, 1660, Vincent died at the age of eighty, having faithfully served God throughout his whole life. On August
13, 1729, Vincent was declared Blessed by Benedict XIII; and on June 16, 1737, he was canonized a Saint by Clement XII.
St. Vincent’s bones and heart are perfectly incorrupt. His relics can be seen in the Church of St. Vincent de Paul in Paris.
After dinner, someme of us decided to pay homage to the Eiffel Tower. After all, a
visit to Paris will be incomplete if you miss seeing the iconic tower, right?
As a backgrounder, the Eiffel Tower is a puddle iron lattice tower located on the
Champ de Mars in Paris. Built in 1889, it has become both a global icon of France
and one of the most recognizable structures in the world. The tower is the tallest
building in Paris and the most-visited paid monument in the world as millions of
people ascend it every year. Named for its designer, engineer Gustave Eiffel, the
tower was built as the entrance arch to the 1889 World's Fair.
The tower stands 324 metres (1,063 ft) tall, about the same height as an 81-storey building. Upon its completion, it
surpassed the Washington Monument to assume the title of tallest man-made structure in the world, a title it held for 41
years, until the Chrysler Building in New York City was built in 1930; however, due to the addition in 1957 of the antenna, the
tower is now taller than the Chrysler Building. Not including broadcast antennas, it is the second tallest structure in France
after the 2004 Millau Viaduct.
Although the tower has become the most prominent symbol of both Paris and France, it was much criticized by the public
when it was built, with many calling it an eyesore. In fact, Novelist Guy de Maupassant – who claimed to hate the tower –
supposedly ate lunch in the Tower’s restaurant every day. When asked why, he answered that it was the one place in Paris
where one could not see the structure. Today, the Tower is widely considered to be a striking piece of structural art.
I bet you didn’t know that Eiffel had a permit for the tower to stand for 20 years and that it was to be dismantled in 1909
when its ownership would revert to the City of Paris, right? Well, the City had planned to tear it down (part of the original
contest rules for designing a tower was that it could be easily demolished) but as the tower proved valuable for
communication purposes, it was allowed to remain after the expiry of the permit.
Maintenance of the tower includes applying 50 to 60 tons of paint every 7 years to protect it from rust. And in order to
maintain a uniform appearance to an observer on the ground, 3 separate colors of paint are used on the tower, with the
darkest on the bottom and the lightest at the top. And as one of the most iconic images in the world, the Eiffel Tower has
been the inspiration for the creation of over 30 duplicates and similar towers around the world.
On the ground floor, there is not much to see except the elevator entrances, along with souvenir shops. One thing I would
recommend though is the original elevator hydraulics which is still in place dating back to the time of Eiffel in the 19th
century. The first floor, on the other hand, features a circular gallery that gives visitors an overview of the tower's history and
design, as well as an introduction to some of Paris' most famous sights and monuments. There is a restaurant on this
floor called “Altitude 95” which is shaped in the style of an airship.
The second floor offers noteworthy panoramas of the city, as well as more insight into the tower's history and construction.
This floor is much smaller than the first because obviously the tower is getting smaller in width. The sights are something
to behold! On this floor is the world-renowned La Jules Verne Restaurant which gives exquisite views of Paris in lavish
surroundings. The top floor, on the other hand, is not for the faint hearted. Unfortunately, as much as I wanted to go up, I
was unable to do so for one reason or another. Nevertheless, if you are in Paris, make sure you visit this “little treasure”
and become part of its history because, surely, you won’t be disappointed.
Lisieux / Paris (France)
After a very early wake-up call and breakfast, we left for Lisieux, the city with a number of
places related to the life of St. Therese. The most prominent are the Carmelite convent,
her home (Les Buissonets), the cathedral, and the basilica.
By way of introduction, Thérèse of Lisieux or Saint Thérèse of the Child Jesus, is also
known as "The Little Flower of Jesus." She felt an early call to religious life at the age of
15, and overcoming various obstacles, became a nun and joined two of her older
sisters in the enclosed Carmelite community of Lisieux, Normandy. After 9 years as a
Carmelite religious, and having spent the last 18 months in Carmel in a night of faith,
she died of tuberculosis at the age of 24. Pope Pius XI made her the star of his
pontificate. She was beatified in 1923, and canonized a saint in 1925.
The main reason for her great appeal to ordinary Catholics was her "Little Way" to
holiness -- her example of achieving sanctity, not through undertaking great deeds, but
through personal devotion and dedication. The young nun's autobiography, L'histoire
d'une âme (Story of a Soul), written at the command of her prioress, was much admired
for its deep spiritual wisdom and beauty. The book presented people with a compelling
example of spiritual maturity and piety achieved by an ordinary young girl. An anecdote,
that she had promised to send roses as a sign of her intercession, led to the
affectionate nickname, the "Little Flower." Her shrine at Lisieux is still one of the most
popular pilgrimage sites in Europe.
After mass at the convent, we proceeded to her home (Les Buissonets) for a quick tour -
We then proceeded to the Basilica of Lisieux, which is considered the second greatest
place of pilgrimage in France after Lourdes. The basilica is considered one of the largest 20th century basilicas in the
world. Its construction was finished in the 1950s. In recent years, its dome has been illuminated with blue lights creating a
peaceful beacon overlooking the Lisieux valley.
There is so much history in Paris that often you do not know where to start. But for us, our first stop was Notre Dame
Cathedral. Notre Dame is a beautiful cathedral on the Île de la Cité. It is an important example of French Gothic
architecture, sculpture and stained glass.
Notre Dame is not the biggest, the tallest, or the oldest cathedral in the world, but it certainly
is the most popular monument in Paris and in all of France, beating even the Eiffel Tower
with 13 million visitors each year. But the famous cathedral is also an active Catholic
church, a place of pilgrimage, and the focal point for Catholicism in France where religious
events of national significance still take place.
Whether Notre Dame brings to mind Victor Hugo’s hunchback, Quasimodo or past
architecture classes on ‘flying buttresses,’ seeing the cathedral in the ‘flesh’ should be one
of your ‘musts’ on any trip to Paris. If you’re not a churchgoer, the cathedral can be admired
just as well from the exterior as from the interior. You can climb up to its bell tower for a
magnificent view and a closer look at some of its decorative gargoyles.
Notre Dame is not the biggest, the tallest, or the oldest cathedral in the world, but it certainly
is the most popular monument in Paris and in all of France, beating even the Eiffel Tower
with 13 million visitors each year. But the famous cathedral is also an active Catholic
church, a place of pilgrimage, and the focal point for Catholicism in France where religious
events of national significance still take place.
Whether Notre Dame brings to mind Victor Hugo’s hunchback, Quasimodo or past
architecture classes on ‘flying buttresses’, seeing the cathedral in the ‘flesh’ should be one
of your ‘musts’ on any trip to Paris. If you’re not a churchgoer, the cathedral can be admired
just as well from the exterior as from the interior. You can climb up to its bell tower for a
magnificent view and a closer look at some of its decorative gargoyles.
Notre Dame was constructed between 1163 and 1334, and the amount of time and money
spent on it reflected the city's growing prestige. Yet, it is the art, rather than its history, that
awes, at least to me anyway. The west front remains a high point of Gothic art for the
balanced proportions of its twin towers and rose window, and the three doorways with their
rows of saints and sculpted tympanums: the Last Judgment (centre), Life of the Virgin (left)
and Life of St Anne (right).
Inside, take a moment to admire the long nave with its solid foliate capitals, and the high altar with a marble Pietà by
Coustou.
Personally, there was a complete sense of awe as soon as I stepped inside the cathedral. The carvings and sculptures on
the wall were simply amazing. I used to think that Notre Dame is just an old and huge cathedral. Far from it. I never thought it
would be a masterpiece of art and architecture. This experience broadened my point of view of lots of places and stuff,
things I never knew before, that would enlighten me during this tour.
Thereafter, we went to the Sacré-Coeur Basilica (Basilica of the Sacred Heart), one of Paris' major tourist draws. The
majestic building is located on top of the Montmartre hill, the highest point in the city.
from the apse. The apse mosaic is the largest in the world. It depicts Christ in Majesty
and The Sacred Heart worshipped by the Virgin Mary, Joan of Arc and St. Michael the
Archangel.
The floor plan is an equal-armed Greek cross, with a large dome (83m high) over the
crossing. In the huge choir, 11 tall round arches support a barrel vault. The bronze altar
is based on the one at Cluny Abbey in Burgundy. Since 1885, the Blessed Sacrament
has been continually on display in a monstrance above the high altar. Perpetual
adoration of the Blessed Sacrament has continued uninterrupted in the Basilica since
1885.
Anyhow, as soon as I stepped inside the basilica, I felt an air of tranquility and awe - a
little slice of heaven. Inside is one of the largest and, surely, most beautiful mosaics in
the world. It would be extremely difficult not to be amazed by its sheer beauty and serene
The Sacré-Coeur Basilica’s iconography is distinctly nationalistic. Designed
in a Romanesque-Byzantine architectural style, the triple-arched portico is
surmounted by two bronze equestrian statues of France's national saints,
Joan of Arc and King Saint Louis IX. Even the great bell, the Savoyarde, has
nationalist references as Savoy was annexed to France in 1860. Cast in
Annecy in 1895, it is one of the world's heaviest bells at 19 tons.
The Sacré-Coeur Basilica (right) is built of Château-Landon (Seine-et-Marne)
stone, a frost-resistant travertine that bleaches with age to a gleaming white.
The main portal has grand bronze doors with foliage designs. Inside, the
Sacré-Coeur is dim and rather gloomy except for the golden mosaics glowing
Saint-Gildard Convent
atmosphere inside this church. I wish I had spent more time in there.
It’s unfortunate that we were unable to do this, but apparently, a climb to the top
of the dome provides an excellent view of Paris. At 271 feet above Montmartre,
it is the second highest viewpoint after the Eiffel Tower - and the walk around
the inside of the dome alone is worth the climb.
The dome is supported by 80 columns, each topped with a different capital.
The crypt contains statues of saints and a relic that some believe to be the very
Sacred Heart of Christ. At the rear of the grounds is a contemplative garden
and fountain.
Can you imagine yourself standing in front of the towering snow-white beauty of
Sacre-Coeur Basilica, with the city of Paris stretched out behind you? I never
imagined I could, but the photo above proved me wrong. It was spellbinding!
Nevers (France)
After an early wake-up call and breakfast, we checked out of our Parisian hotel
and left for Nevers to visit the incorrupt body of St. Bernadette Soubirous which
is kept at Saint-Gildard Convent.
Born in Lourdes in 1844, Bernadette Soubirous was 14 when the Virgin Mary appeared to her at Massabielle Rock. In
1866, in order to fulfill her desire for a religious life, Bernadette arrived in Saint-Gildard, Mother House of the Sisters of
Charity of Nevers, where she learned to read and write.
Bernadette stayed there for 13 years. Her simple and ordinary life was completely given to God and others. On her death
in 1879, her body was entombed in a chapel in the garden. It was found intact and has rested in a shrine in the chapel
since 1925.
Since the Blessed Virgin Mary graced the grotto of Lourdes with Her presence in 1858, it has been one of the world’s
most popular Marian shrines. Many people have knelt at the famous rock and prayed to Saint Bernadette, who saw the
Immaculate Virgin on 18 occasions. And yet many people do not know that the body of Saint Bernadette lies incorrupt in
the chapel of the Convent of Saint-Gildard at Nevers, and that this convent is open to the public. Many pilgrims visit the
convent, others come out of curiosity, perhaps disbelieving that Bernadette's body is indeed perfectly preserved. The air
of reverence and silence follows closely on the realization that this is fact rather than fantasy.
When Bernadette died on April 16, 1879, her body was buried in the small chapel dedicated to St. Joseph, within the
convent grounds. In September of 1909, Bernadette’s body was exhumed as part of the process leading to her eventual
canonization. The hollowed-out tomb was extremely humid - her habit was very damp, the rosary held in her hands was
rusted and her crucifix had turned green. Yet despite this, the body itself was perfectly preserved. Two further
exhumations (in April 1919 and April 1925) were carried out. At the third, the skin was found to have discolored slightly in
places, due probably to exposure to the air following the 46 years of burial. Because of this, the firm of Pierre Imans in
Paris made light wax coverings for the face and hands. By June of 1925, the Cateland workshop in Lyon had finished the
gilt and crystal reliquary which was to be the final resting place of the saint; the light wax masks were placed on the face
and hands and the body was placed in the shrine. The same month, Pope Pius XI beatified Bernadette - she could now
be called "Blessed" and her remains could be publicly venerated. In August, the shrine was ceremonially placed in the
main chapel of the convent, and the long line of pilgrims began to visit the convent. In 1933, Bernadette was declared a
Saint -- appropriately, this took place on December 8th, feast of the Immaculate Conception.
This was one of Bernadette’s favorite places for quiet prayer, as she had a fond love for the Spouse of Mary. It was later to
become her resting place during the 46 years of her burial. It is very plain and simple, with a stained-glass window of
Our Lady above the small altar. Inset into the wall is the tombstone from Bernadette’s original grave.
Beaune / Ars / Paray-le-Monial (France)
We then travelled to the beautiful city of Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy. It
is a walled city, where about half of the battlements, ramparts and the moat,
remain in good condition. Historically, Beaune is intimately connected with the
Dukes of Burgundy.
After breakfast, we visited “Hotel-Dieu”, one of the most impressive
architectural pieces in the region. Built in 1443 by Nicolas Rollin, chancellor to
King Philippe le Bon (Philip the Good), its unique style was inspired by Flemish
architecture. A former medieval hospital, its purpose was to serve and take
care of the pauper who had fought for the French armies.
Pix
As a backgrounder, The Hotel-Dieu was founded when Burgundy was ruled by
Philip the Good. The Hundred Years War had recently been brought to a close.
However, massacres continued with marauding bands still roaming the
countryside, provoking misery and famine. The majority of the people of
Beaune were declared destitute. Nicolas Rollin, the Duke’s Chancellor, and
his wife reacted by deciding to create a hospital and refuge for the poor.
Over the centuries, the hospital radiated outwards, grouping with similar
establishments in the surrounding villages. Many donations were made to it by
grateful families and generous benefactors. The institution is one of the best
and oldest examples of historical, philanthropic, and wine-producing heritage,
and has become linked with the economic and cultural life of Burgundy. It is
now a museum.
Right is the “Room of the Poors”. On the ceiling is a visible painted frame in an
upside down boat-skiff shape and in each beam are sculpted caricatures of
some important Beaune inhabitants. The room is furnished with two rows of
curtained beds. The central area was dedicated to benches and tables for the
meals. Each bed could welcome two patients.